Whäät häppens in saunä, stääys in saunä.

I'm not sure if Geof and I just had a sauna, took a sauna, or simply sauna-ed, but whatever it was, it was pretty amazing.

Karri has explained to us its significance in some detail, that it's an integral part of Finnish life, essential to one's well-being, but not about the mind. At one point tonight, Henriikka said he was making it sound too mystical, but Karri said that it is, that a good sauna experience takes you to another place in time.

Since Geof and I had been wanting to try it, we were also interested in the practical reality: How do you build the wood fire without burning the sauna down? How do you know if someone is already in there? When do you actually get naked? (You do get naked, right?) and so on. After telling us that there are no rules about sauna, only unwritten ones, Karri kindly told us the rules about sauna.

He built the fire for us in the stove, then had Geof add wood periodically. He showed us how to check to see if the fire was hot enough by dribbling water on the stones. He told us where to leave our clothes. He showed us where the key was. He told us how to occasionally leave and go outside to cool off. Olli-Pekka made us a vihta, or birch whisk, and Karri explained how it stimulates circulation when you soften it in hot water and then use it to swat yourself. He said to shower before and after (and in between, perhaps), and to sit on towels. He told us to add a couple logs to the fire when we were ready to leave to keep the fire going for the next group.

When he decided the fire was hot enough, he left us with these words, which he said were passed from the Finnish forefathers to their sons about sauna culture (loosely translated): "What happens in sauna, stays in sauna."

First, let me tell you that a real, wood-fire sauna experience is NOTHING like those electric hotel saunas where you set the timer and the thermostat. This heat was like being in Death Valley in July. Like stepping out of your air-conditioned car into the 127 degree heat of Needles, California. In July. Trust me. I know. This heat took my breath away.

And then we got a little used to it. We could relax against the back of the bench, occasionally and languidly rising to toss a little cold water onto the heated stones.

We probably spent no more than five or six minutes inside at a time before we had to go sit outside in the cool night air. Before sauna, I needed to wear my fleece jacket. During sauna, I could sit outside in a towel. We made several trips back in, and then outside again with cold showers in between. Finally, we decided to let others have a turn and headed back to our room.

In the kitchen, we ran into two members of Quo Vadis (and sauna experts, indeed), Otso and Marku, who wanted to know how our experience was. We were both still pink, I think, and I felt rather floaty in my limbs. Marku apparently has built many saunas, including one for Madonna. He allowed us to touch the hand that built the bench that Madonna saunas on, and we did.

It's been just over an hour that we ended our first real sauna experience, and I still feel floaty and relaxed. We will need to speak to Marku again before we leave Finland to find out when he's available to build our own sauna in Schenectady.

The giant ant hills of Finland and other tales of nature and laundry

I should have written twice yesterday, once about Saturday night's reading, and once about Sunday's events. I even had time last evening, but too little energy after all the weekend's busy-ness. Instead of writing, I researched digital recorders for a project I want to begin.

Fortunately, yesterday was fairly uneventful and included doing the laundry and having dinner with the group. We'd put off doing the laundry for as long as possible, and I'd even washed some underwear by hand. But when Geof reached the point where his only shirt was the quick-dry spandex surf shirt he'd gotten for swimming, we knew the time had come.

The washing machine is the typical washer/dryer all-in-one, which is a great idea. We assumed we'd be able to figure it out fairly easily, but we hit two problems: too many options (with icons that were not quite clear enough--"Does that swirly thing mean water or wool?" ), and the fact that the manual we consulted and then verified with the Finnish dictionary turned out to be in Swedish. We realized this soon enough, and once we found the Finnish part of the manual, things went a bit more smoothly. One kind member of Quo Vadis helped us figure out the fastest wash cycle on the machine and showed us that we had to turn on the water. Then, finally, we were set. My only fear (and not much of one) was that the detergent was really bleach, especially since we could not find some of the words in the dictionary.

After we ate the delicious dinner that Karri had kindly prepared for about 10 of us, we checked on the wash. To speed things up, we hung our clothes on the line to dry. Geof hung the last load after I had gone back to the manor house, and this morning, he retrieved them for us.

Before laundry yesterday, Geof and I took a walk to a nearby bird-viewing platform very close to the residence. Along the way, we walked through a beautiful open field hip-high with plants where I gathered my now traditional examples of flora to press in a book and then display in a picture frame.

My Finnish flora (photo by Geof Huth)

Once we reached the woods, we noticed a pile of pine needles, strangely large. Looking closer, it seemed to be moving, and then we saw it was swarming with ants. Karri later confirmed that these are common in Finland. Geof took several pictures, but the setting was too dark, so we'll have to be sure to get good pictures later. For now, let me just assure you that these giant pine needle ant hills as big as a pitcher's mound are pretty incredible.

Not far from this spot, we found the wooden, three-storey bird-watching platform. From the top, we had a great view of the archipelago we have been living on.

Pine trees at mid-level view

View from the top

View from the top of cows lying down

I took this picture with my father in mind. One of his sayings is that when cows lie down, it means it will rain. While it didn't rain yesterday, it certainly does look as if it could today. But since I can hear the cows mooing and walking restlessly somewhere in the field just out of view, no longer lying down, I wonder how he can explain that one . . .

So much poetry we didn't mind not seeing moose.

Yesterday was a big day, so big that I was too tired to write when we returned home. Part of me thinks I should wait to write about it, but I think I will disregard that little voice and just do it.

We left for Turku about 2:00 so we would have time to visit Turku Castle, an avant-garde exhibit of Russian art, have dinner and find the Turku Student Theater in time for the reading at 7:00. We accomplished all this, and more. As I said, it was a big day.

Turku Castle is interesting because of its huge size but also because it proudly wears its many renovations from its first incarnation in the 1200s. I enjoyed its many twisting passageways that opened, surprisingly, into massive rooms.

The afternoon sunlight was beautiful through the wavy windowpanes.

With just enough time, we left the castle to see the Wäinö Aaltosen museo and have a quick dinner. The student theater was quite close to the restaurant (thanks to Karri's fine planning), so it was an easy walk there.
The reading started pretty much right on time, which is unusual for most poetry readings. And it was a good thing it did since it lasted for three hours, again, unusual for most poetry readings. With 13 of us reading, it was a fast-paced and interesting night. I enjoyed the diversity of the poets Karri assembled, and those of use who haven't read in public since the 1980s (ahem), appreciated his informal MC style, as well as the fact that the audience was attentive and enthusiastic. The theater has good acoustics and is an intimate (without being crowded) space. While I provide some pictures here, I must save some for Geof to use in his more thorough discussion, and unfortunately, we don't have usable pictures of all the participants. We do have lots of video (which may not be posted anywhere for a bit, but which will be eventually).

Henriikka Tavi

Quo Vadis Band

Karri Kokko introducing Christian Bök

Geof Huth

To borrow Karri's quote about the reading, "It was the fastest three hours I've ever spent."

For a slightly different perspective of the reading, Satu Kaikkonen has written a kind and thoughtful (and much more thorough than mine!) discussion of the reading, with pictures of everyone involved. Unfortunately, we had to say good-bye to her and her husband after the reading, but I know I will read her blogs often to keep up with all the interesting and varied work she does.

After the reading, many of us walked to a nearby beer garden and restaurant for drinks. We sat outside enjoying the warm summer night and the company. I tried one good darkish beer and then had a lempi mustikka, a blueberry hard cider, which was really good. Eventually, we noticed that the night had actually become dark, so we knew it was quite late. And as I noted at the beginning, we were so tired, we did not stay up to record the day's events but went straight to bed.

It is hard for me to express the significance of being able to read with such talented writers and performers. An amazing experience I will always cherish.

Holey ice-cream, winding river, tassled grain . . . but still no moose . . .

The day began with frustration as Geof tried to finish a booklet for tomorrow night's reading in Turku. Geof settled on a work-around solution, and Karri arranged for it to be printed. At 1:00, we gathered downstairs for a group picture and then to listen to Satu's presentation of her emergence and process as a visual poet. She is amazingly productive, and her work is ever-changing and beautiful. She is also an elementary teacher, so I've enjoyed talking to her and learning a little about Finnish education.

After Satu's presentation, Geof and I prepared our scripts for tomorrow night's reading. Even though I will still have to use my reading glasses, we blew my poems up to a bigger font just in case. With that finally out of the way, Karri drove Geof, Christian and me to Turku to pick up Geof's booklets and to have dinner. We spent a bit of time scouting out stationery supply stores but when Karri found us a shopping mall right in downtown Turku, we were set.

Not only did we find a book/stationery store, but we also found more Mövenpick ice-cream, our new favorite. Since it was likely the shop would be closed by the time we finished eating dinner, we decided to have this as a pre-dinner dessert. I had an intense banana flavor. As the counter girl dug craters into the ice-cream containers, Karri and I joked that Christian and Geof were struggling to resist the compulsion to smooth out her scoop-holes (as had been previously discussed at dinner). Geof has been smoothing out my ice-cream holes for years, a thing that never ceases to amuse me. She offered to allow them behind the counter to smooth out all the uneven spots, but they declined.

We had yet another great dinner and then walked along the Aura River. I took many pictures as Karri, Geof and Christian walked ahead and talked.

Once again, the main topic of conversation on the ride home was whether we would see any moose, what we would do IF we saw any moose, and how to avoid death if we happened to be surprised by a moose on the road. The conversation took a strange turn when Karri said he'd seen an article about a man who supposedly jumped on a swimming moose and rode him for a few meters. From moose, the topic became a discussion of which grain we were passing--rye, wheat or barley. Although I didn't contribute much to this discussion, I did helpfully supply the word "tassle."

Once again I find myself sitting here, feeling pretty darn awake with light still outside my window, only to realize that it's heading towards midnight. Since tomorrow is a big day, and since I'm trying to get to bed before 2:30 a.m., I will finish by posting some pictures from our visit to Turku.

Turku Market

Inside the Turku market

Turku Cathedral